Hyderbadi Thali with mutton dum biryani and gravies
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What does it imply to dine like a king? A. Massive parts / B. Wealthy flavours/ C. Silver plates/ D. Heirloom recipes. The Park Chennai, in collaboration with Aish from The Park, Hyderabad chooses possibility E. All of the above.
Gosht ka Marag
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Chef Habeeb Mohsin from Aish brings the regal specialities of Hyderabad to this 10-day pop up via two set menus. The meal begins with a nannari and lemon sherbet which is refreshing. The Butte Pudina ka shorba is a corn-based soup which tastes like a lightweight chowder, creamy with coconut, a robust mint flavour with a gentle kick from the inexperienced chilli. The non-vegetarian various is Gosht ka Marag, a slow-simmered mutton broth made with mint. The cardamom, cloves and cinnamon make the soup flavourful whereas black pepper renders warmth. It’s served with a bit of mutton which is succulent and the meat falls off the bone when picked.
In his profession that spans throughout three a long time, Chef Mohsin has labored with a number of cooks throughout Hyderabad and Outdated Delhi and with the final descendant of the Mughal Tucy household. “Meals had been deliberate round meat within the royal kitchens however when cooking for our diners in Chennai, it is very important have vegetarian choices which might be nearly as good because the non vegetarian ones,” he says.
Non veg starter platter
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A platter of starters is served subsequent. It contains the normal Pathar ka Gosht — boneless mutton items coated with a easy spice mix that features ginger, garlic, pink chilli and is cooked on a stone slab. It’s tender, barely spiced and is served with quite a lot of chutneys. The makai badam aur akhrot ki tikki shines among the many different vegetarian starters. Made with minced corn, almond and walnut, this dish is snacky with a comfortable chunk from the coarsely chopped nuts and melts within the mouth.
Like Pathar ka Gosht, over time, Haleem additionally has grow to be quintessentially Hyderabadi. Whereas the non vegetarian meat stew made with pounded lamb and wheat is decadent, his well-liked jackfruit Haleem with oodles of ghee is a worthy match. It’s served with Sheermal, a comfortable saffron scented bun and topped with fried onions, a lemon wedge and a sprig of mint however missed a crunchy part which was a a lot wanted aspect to interrupt the monotony of the in any other case slimy dish.
“One of many largest challenges in serving Hyderabadi delicacies in a fine-dining arrange is dividing it into programs. Historically, there isn’t any amuse bouche or mid-meal palette cleanser. However it’s fascinating to reimagine conventional components like jamun to organize a refreshing sorbet,” provides Chef Mohsin.
In a multi-course arrange, the eventual subsequent step can be to get into the principle course. However what got here subsequent was an extravagant thali with a basket of rotis, parathas, a pot filled with biryani, seven gravies, a cup of garlic flavoured curd and a salad — which looks as if a multi-course meal in itself. Breathless as we had been, we style and nibble our approach across the thali. The Sojni ka murgh, a hen gravy made with drumstick pulp and inexperienced bajji chilli is fascinating and subtly spiced.
“One of many key options of Hyderabadi delicacies is cooking meat with greens. Now we have tried to make use of greens that aren’t typically utilized in making gravies,” says the chef.
Dessert platter
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To shut the meal got here one more platter! Among the many desserts the Qubani cream cheese mille-feuille is modern with stewed apricots that are well-liked in Hyderabadi delicacies layered with cream cheese and buttery phyllo pastry.
“Is that this actually how a lot kings ate?” we surprise, as we loosen our pants and waddle again dwelling.
The Aish meals pop up is at 601 restaurant at The Park, Nungambakkam and is offered for lunch and dinner until July 31. The menus are priced at ₹2,499 and ₹2,999 per individual.